Alan Strutt (British, born 1967). Yasmin Le Bon, Palladium, London, 1997. Evening Standard, Oct 1997. Haute couture Slide/Wintertime 1997–98 collection (“La Chimère”). © Alan Strutt
On watch from November 18, 2022, to May possibly 7, 2023
From haute couture types to stage costumes, photographs, movies, and unpublished archives, Thierry Mugler: Couturissime is the 1st retrospective to check out the intriguing, edgy universe of French designer and creator of iconic perfumes Thierry Mugler. Organized by the Montreal Museum of Wonderful Arts, Thierry Mugler: Couturissime has been adapted for the Brooklyn Museum by Thierry-Maxime Loriot, curator of the exhibition, and Matthew Yokobosky, Senior Curator of Fashion and Substance Society, Brooklyn Museum. Showcasing virtually 130 outfits, most on view for the initial time, the exhibition will also incorporate extras, videos, photographs, sketches, and a special gallery dedicated to fragrances. Already found by more than a single million people in Canada, Germany, the Netherlands, and France considering the fact that its launch in 2019, the exhibition concludes its tour in Brooklyn.
A trend visionary, Mugler founded himself as one particular of the most daring and innovative designers of the late twentieth century. In the 1970s, Mugler described tendencies by developing his acclaimed “glamazon” (a conflation of “glamour” and “Amazon”), a chic, modern-day girl whose fashion progressed from the flower electricity, hippie fashions of the 1960s. During Mugler’s vocation, his daring silhouettes and use of avant garde fabrication approaches and resources including glass, Plexiglas, PVC, fake fur, vinyl, latex, and chrome built their mark on trend historical past. In the 1980s and ’90s, he galvanized the renaissance of haute couture by way of his provocative collections and theatrical fashion demonstrates, which involved grandiose destinations and the era’s most acclaimed versions. To this working day, his work proceeds to influence new generations of couturiers.
Mugler’s sensational displays and smooth aesthetic have been immortalized as a result of his course and models for George Michael’s music video clip “Too Funky” (introduced in 1992) and his costume styles for Cirque du Soleil (Zumanity, 2003) and Beyoncé’s acclaimed globe tour I Am . . . (2009). Stars go on to be drawn to Mugler’s designs: his vintage robes have not long ago been worn by Beyoncé, Cardi B, and Kim Kardashian. Thierry Mugler: Couturissime is an option to explore and rediscover the fantastical function of an artist, couturier, director, photographer, and perfumer who revolutionized the planet of style.
The exhibition is organized thematically, highlighting Mugler’s interests in fantasy, glamour, science fiction, eroticism, and the natural environment. Shown in the Brooklyn Museum’s Morris A. and Meyer Schapiro Wing and Iris and B. Gerald Cantor Gallery, the exhibition opens with a existence-sizing 3-D hologram, made by artist Michel Lemieux for Lemieux Pilon 4D Artwork. The projection delivers to life Mugler’s layouts for a theatrical manufacturing of La Tragédie de Macbeth, presented by the Comédie-Française at the 1985 Pageant d’Avignon. The Brooklyn Museum presentation also involves a gallery focused to fragrance, with a new segment celebrating the thirtieth anniversary of Mugler’s trailblazing scent Angel. Mugler distinguished himself in the earth of modern-day perfumes with this 1992 release. The fragrance’s inclusion of ethyl maltol, a compound utilized in the food market to lend a sugary style to sweets, started off an olfactory revolution that launched a new fragrance category: gourmand. Angel is exhibited along with Mugler’s later on fragrance creations Alien, A*gentlemen, Aura, and Womanity.
Couturissime also explores the importance of fashion images, with works by many artists and Mugler collaborators such as Lillian Bassman, Dude Bourdin, David LaChapelle, Karl Lagerfeld, Sarah Moon, Pierre et Gilles, Herb Ritts, and Ellen von Unwerth. Mugler himself grew to become a well known trend photographer in the 1970s, capturing his individual promotion campaigns. He performed on the glamour and natural beauty of his muses, from Jerry Hall to Iman, in serious locations this sort of as Greenland, the Sahara, the roof of the Paris Opéra, and atop the famed eagles on the sixty-very first floor of New York City’s Chrysler Setting up. The exhibition also highlights the lifelong collaboration among Thierry Mugler and photographer Helmut Newton. 20-three of Newton’s photographs are on check out, which include photos that element Mugler’s vital assortment “Lingerie Revisited,” Slide/Wintertime 1998–99, and the styles Carla Bruni and Kristen McMenamy.
Mugler’s desire in futurism and his exclusive “fembot couture” are showcased in galleries developed by Berlin artist and established designer Philipp Fürhofer. Mugler took inspiration from a range of sources, these as science fiction and comic-reserve superheroines, medieval armor and uniforms, and industrial structure and futuristic autos. He playfully devised detachable or “convertible” sheath robes, “fender” bustiers, “radiator” belts, and a “tail fin” bag. He collaborated with Jean-Pierre Delcros, an plane bodywork expert, and Jean-Jacques Urcun, an artist, to develop robotic human beings seemingly poured into chrome bustiers and Plexiglas catsuits. Mugler’s all-time masterpiece, Maschinenmensch, presented in 1995 at his twentieth-anniversary present, is a entirely articulated robotic armor match that necessary 6 months of intensive perform to fabricate. The accommodate pays tribute to the character of Futura from the dystopian novel Metropolis (1925), famously visualized in the eponymous 1927 film by Fritz Lang.
In 1991, Mugler’s skills extended into songs and film when he directed the music online video for George Michael’s song “Too Funky,” which has absent on to come to be an MTV and YouTube basic. As explored in a dedicated gallery, the video’s costumes had been worn by prime versions of the working day, such as Tyra Banks, Linda Evangelista, Connie Girl, Eva Herzigová, Estelle Lefébure, and Emma Sjöberg, as very well as performer Joey Arias and actor Julie Newmar, the unique Catwoman.
In the “Metamorphosis” portion of the exhibition, an immersive installation by Rodeo Forex (which has produced special outcomes for these kinds of productions as Dune, Sport of Thrones, and Stranger Items) highlights flamboyant silhouettes from Mugler’s “Les Insectes” and “La Chimère” collections of 1997–98, featuring steep shoulders, plunging décolletés, and hourglass waistlines. The centerpiece style is a black velvet sheath and coach, adorned with butterfly wings created of feathers established by plumassier Maison Lemarié. One more dress attributes iridescent scales and is embroidered with crystals, costume diamonds, feathers, and horsehair, a end result of the extravagance of Mugler’s couture creativity. “Metamorphosis” also involves nymphs donning scalloped glass-and-shell bustiers, posed along with organza jellyfish that evoke the imagery of Jules Verne’s nineteenth-century science-fiction novel Twenty Thousand Leagues underneath the Seas but with a contemporary twist.
“The continuous innovations, innovations, and avant-garde architectural silhouettes in the perform of Mugler have marked an period,” states Thierry-Maxime Loriot, curator of the exhibition. “His singular model uncovered a location in the historical past of manner that however has a impressive influence on today’s technology of couturiers, not only because of its styles, but also because of the potent information of inclusivity, range, and empowerment in his human body of perform. To existing the exhibition I created with him, in the city he lived in and cherished so much, is the most lovely tribute to rejoice the guy and the artist’s legacy.”
“Building on the Brooklyn Museum’s record of celebrating the trailblazing French couturiers Jean Paul Gaultier in 2013, Pierre Cardin in 2019, and Christian Dior in 2021, we’re thrilled for our audiences to working experience Thierry Mugler: Couturissime,” states Matthew Yokobosky, Senior Curator of Trend and Substance Tradition, Brooklyn Museum. “Originally a ballet dancer, Thierry Mugler was a designer who intimately understood the mechanics of the body and experienced considerable understanding of components and manufacturing. He made use of this knowledge to generate empowering visions for all individuals, primarily females, such as his archetypal superheroine silhouettes.”
Sandrine Groslier, Mugler Vogue and Fragrance World wide President, says, “Always ahead of his time, Manfred Thierry Mugler built a environment blending fantasy, extravagance, and experimentation. I also see Mugler as a troublemaker and a sculptor of fantasies, who hardly ever had plenty of extravagances. Mugler used to say, ‘My restrict is NO limit.’ Presenting Couturissime in New York Town is the fruits of the aspiration we experienced seven many years in the past, when we started to consider the largest exhibition at any time focused to the artist and the brand name.”
“I’m so energized to deliver Couturissime to Brooklyn,” states Casey Cadwallader, Inventive Director of Mugler. “The exhibition is a vibrant journey by way of Manfred Thierry Mugler’s eyesight and legacy. A real imaginative managing in his have lane, every little thing he touched, from silhouettes and craft to casting and fragrance, was unique. He was normally real to himself, because it was the only way he understood how to be.”
Reserve timed tickets for Thierry Mugler: Couturissime by viewing my.brooklynmuseum.org. Members will have accessibility to untimed tickets and distinctive Member hours, like a preview on November 17 and early obtain on Saturdays at 10am. To come to be a Member, go to www.brooklynmuseum.org/help/sign up for or e-mail [email protected]
Exhibition Credit score
Thierry Mugler: Couturissime was initiated, manufactured and circulated by the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, in collaboration with the Maison Mugler.
The exhibition is curated by Thierry-Maxime Loriot, visitor curator for the Montreal Museum of High-quality Arts.
The Brooklyn presentation is coordinated by Matthew Yokobosky, Senior Curator of Style and Substance Tradition, Brooklyn Museum.