Patrice Leguéreau has designed a diverse variety of items considering the fact that he turned the director of Chanel’s Fantastic Jewelry Inventive Studio in 2009, but they always begin with the same inspiration: the patterns, way of life and personality of the brand’s founder, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel.
“This is the starting stage, the foundation, the commencing of every single new collection and new solution,” Mr. Leguéreau (pronounced LE-gehr-oh) mentioned in a phone job interview from his Paris business office in a Spot Vendôme making that also residences a a short while ago renovated boutique committed to Chanel’s high-quality jewellery and watches.
“Sometimes I am encouraged by Gabrielle Chanel herself: her existence, her friends, her apartments,” he extra, “or from time to time only by a very powerful graphic icon, like camellia or the lion. The inspiration arrives from distinct sections of the Chanel universe.”
As its newest couture fashions are getting proven, Chanel is presenting Mr. Leguéreau’s most current significant jewelry collection in Paris to shoppers and other invited attendees. (Some pieces from the line were proven in Taiwan in May well.) Its 71 things variety from a comparatively subdued white gold and diamond ring accentuated by a large star (in, certainly, more diamonds) to grander pieces like a white gold collar adorned with 839 diamonds, which include a person stone that is 5.02 carats.
Dubbed the 1932 High Jewelry Assortment, the items pay back homage to a line Ms. Chanel made 90 a long time back, named only Bijoux de Diamants — diamond jewelry. Like the clothing and perfume she’d now develop into well known for, it was undeniably lavish but lacked formality and fuss.
“She required to do in jewellery the similar factor that she did in fashion, which intended that the items must be really wearable,” claimed Fabienne Reybaud, who wrote a quantity on Chanel’s wonderful jewelry and watches that is element of a three-part compendium on the brand name published by Assouline.
With the collection, Ms. Chanel basically opened the door for fashion houses to develop their very own large jewellery traces.
“She disturbed, and she moved, the world of jewelry,” Mr. Leguéreau claimed.
A single piece from Bijoux de Diamants, he mentioned, specifically influenced him — an open diamond necklace created to symbolize a comet, punctuated by a big star. “It’s really a masterpiece,” he reported, adding that it is “jewelry that is designed to in shape the physique of the female.”
The new 1932 selection is Mr. Leguéreau’s second direct homage to Bijoux de Diamants. In 2012, Chanel marked its 80th anniversary with a identical assortment. This year’s iteration involves a thing new: coloured stones like sapphires and blue opals mixed with the copious array of diamonds.
Also, its motifs are focused to cosmic imagery like moons and stars. The goal, Mr. Leguéreau stated, was “to produce a selection additional concentrated and much more concentrated.”
Mr. Leguéreau oversees the layout of Chanel’s large jewellery and also its a lot less rarefied high-quality jewellery. About the years, his collections have bundled extremely recognizable brand motifs, which include facts that propose the brand’s bouclé jackets and the matelassé quilting of its distinct handbags.
“He produces jewelry where by you can know that it is by Chanel,” Ms. Reybaud reported.
“It’s form of like omni-channel marketing,” explained Christopher Olshan, main executive of the Luxury Marketing and advertising Council Globally. “You want a regular brand concept throughout all channels.”
Although Chanel does not share revenue figures, its jewelry small business appears to be thriving: there are Chanel boutiques that exclusively market fantastic jewellery and watches in metropolitan areas like London, New York, Hong Kong and Shanghai.
Mr. Leguéreau stated that he doesn’t get the job done directly with the designers of Chanel’s other categories, but he felt an affinity with them. “We have all a organic connection collectively, mainly because the Chanel identify, the Chanel patrimony, the Chanel history, is so deep and so clear, so apparent,” he mentioned.
Mr. Leguéreau, 51, speaks about his work with enthusiasm. When it will come to his personalized existence, he’s guarded.
Born in Paris and lifted concerning the metropolis and France’s Burgundy region, he won’t share substantially about his upbringing, other than to say that as a little one he designed a enthusiasm for drawing that he employs in his do the job currently, since sketching is an integral aspect of the way he designs. He also obtained a really like of athletics that continues to be — he has run marathons in Paris and New York, for occasion, and enjoys skiing and biking.
As a young man, he did not strategy to go into jewelry structure — he attained a diploma in 1991 from École Boulle, a Paris-based higher education of art and used artwork. But he became interested in luxury and, as he set it, “for me, jewelry is the most luxurious action.” It led him to earn a graduate degree in 1998 from the Institut National de Gemmologie, about a mile northwest of exactly where he operates today.
Prior to becoming a member of Chanel, he made jewelry for 17 many years at Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Absolutely, heritage is an inherent portion of his previous employers’ jewelry, but Mr. Leguéreau suggests Chanel’s url with its earlier is one of a kind.
“The heritage is additional a spirit, a philosophy, and that makes for me additional freedom to create very up to date and contemporary merchandise,” he said. “That presents a lot more area to generate. The spirit is pretty, quite different.”
Mr. Leguéreau’s collections just take between two and 3 years to generate, but he’s currently setting up a thing with a little bit much more observe: a collection for the 100th anniversary of Bijoux de Diamants.
“I’ve started wondering about the way I could rejoice this assortment in 10 a long time,” he claimed, “to keep on to be diverse, to surprise and to develop one thing new and present day.”