March 1, 2024

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Unique & Classy

Jewelry Houses Turn to Fashion Design

5 min read

Having the stage in Toronto in July all through her Renaissance World Tour, Beyoncé emerged in a glitzy minidress created of a multitude of diamond-studded strands.

The designer? Tiffany & Business — which also provided her customized Tiffany Victoria Diamond Anklet in platinum and a pair of vintage Swirl Earrings in gold and diamonds.

It was a popular instance of jewelers flirting with fashion, a pattern in current several years that parallels trend homes introducing significant jewellery collections (most just lately, at Fendi) and sending designs out with jewels doubling as apparel (like the Loewe spring 2024 demonstrate, with Jonathan Anderson’s design for a prime that looked like hundreds of leaf brooches).

As for the Tiffany job, “the customized pieces made for Beyoncé’s Renaissance World Tour permitted our style workforce to experiment and uplift quite a few of the models from our legendary archives,” Alexandre Arnault, Tiffany’s executive vice president of product and communications, wrote in an electronic mail. He was referring to the diamond strand mini — impressed by a mesh layout and the Diamonds by the Lawn look, both of those designed by Elsa Peretti, a single of the house’s most famous designers — and to two other attire that it developed in collaboration with the British designer Giles Deacon for the Beyoncé tour.

The Peretti heritage had surfaced formerly, when Tiffany established a gold mesh bra for Zoë Kravitz to don to a 2019 Oscars occasion, echoing a design that Ms. Peretti experienced conceived in the 1970s soon after seeing metallic mesh remaining manufactured by hand in India.

Cartier also has been in on the fashion trend. At an Oscars occasion earlier this yr, Zoe Saldaña wore the Tressage cape, section of the Cartier Libre selection that highlighted experimental styles and procedures.

The property mentioned the cape, the result of two years’ do the job, comprised 67,000 chain mail backlinks assembled by hand 150 diamonds and 14 zippers, seven at the front and 7 at the again, and just about every zipper pull tipped with a faceted onyx pendant. Ms. Saldaña wore the piece with the zippers closed, but if she experienced unzipped some of them, the shoulder-covering segments could have been eradicated, cutting down the cape to a choker with bib-fashion accents.

“The Cartier crew educated me they experienced an extraordinary, one-of-a-sort piece in the generating, which I observed in Paris though I was there for couture in January,” Petra Flannery, Ms. Saldaña’s stylist, stated. “It was extraordinary, and I immediately assumed Zoe, with her poise and elegance, was the excellent human being to pull this off.”

After contemplating quite a few selections, “we in the end determined to don it as a comprehensive cape and pair it with a black column skirt by Michael Kors,” she mentioned.

There also has been the Calliope camisole built entirely of pearls and launched in 2019 by the London jewellery property Alighieri. It was named for the Greek muse who presides in excess of epic poetry, a nod to the Italian poet Dante Alighieri, whose perform inspires each and every piece from the brand name.

“I’ve often thought of jewelry as armor,” Rosh Mahtani, the brand’s founder, said, “and desired to thrust this principle and build atelier pieces that felt talismanic.”

The camisole was built of about 1,000 pearls wire-wrapped by hand and pieced alongside one another like a puzzle. It took Alighieri’s atelier 96 several hours to produce, weighed 3 kilograms (6.6 lbs) and was priced at 12,000 kilos ($14,855). “It is not an day-to-day piece,” claimed Ms. Mahtani, who has been commissioned to make 3 so considerably, two of them for weddings.

And Chopard is organizing the upcoming steps for Caroline’s Couture, which debuted at the Cannes Film Pageant early this yr as a 50-robe collection by Caroline Scheufele, the house’s co-president and artistic director.

For yrs, Ms. Scheufele mentioned, she experienced seen gowns by other designers at the function — but “there was no harmony among the dresses and my jewelry.”

So she made a decision to do a thing about it, producing gowns that, she stated, framed the “real star of the glimpse, the jewelry” — and presenting them on models these as Helena Christensen, Eva Herzigova, Naomi Campbell and Natalia Vodianova for the duration of the pageant, an celebration the manufacturer has been sponsoring given that 1998.

Other jewelry models have ranged from introducing whole sportswear strains (this sort of as the vogue jewellery company Éliou in the United States) to a type of style accent assortment (like Messika’s diamond chains that clip on apparel). And there has been jewelry made as sections of clothes, notably the magnetized black and white stripe pocket and the green tsavorite-studded cuff that debuted in July as aspect of Boucheron’s Far more Is Additional superior jewelry assortment.

“I was fascinated by types going for walks down the catwalk with their palms in their pockets,” reported Claire Choisne, Boucheron’s resourceful director. “I observed it elegant, and it is a gesture I naturally do, so I preferred to present this design and style with a piece of jewellery.” (The selection also involved a jeweled hoodie toggle and a hair scrunchie in saturated colors.)

And at PAD London in October, the Spanish designer Julia Muñoz, who now functions in Paris, showcased a assortment of gold-plated bronze parts resembling — and intended to be worn in the identical way as — shirt collars and cuffs.

Louisa Guinness, owner of the eponymous gallery in London that specializes in artwork jewelry, claimed she sees the intersection of clothing and jewellery as a return to the earlier. “Look at the portrait paintings from the earlier,” she claimed. “Clothes are generally embellished with gems, and earning buttons was typically the career of a jeweler.”

At her gallery, Ms. Guinness is displaying a Rectangle Necklace made of various strands of pearls and oxidized silver chains. Measuring 16 inches extensive by 10 inches broad, it can be worn as a capelet, bib or assymetrical scarf and is the function of Melanie Georgacopoulos, a jeweler who life in Hamburg, Germany.

“People seem at it and are intrigued by it, but it continue to has not located the exclusive woman who needs to wear it,” said Ms. Georgacopoulos, who built the piece in 2012. “Some parts will need to be noticed more than the moment, they need to be found at the appropriate time to be appreciated.”

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