John Alexander Skelton Fall 2023 Menswear Collection2 min read
Whenever regular knowledge would have instructed John Alexander Skelton to choose a sure route, he’s long gone the other way. Even with the launchpad promised by his prize-successful Central Saint Martins graduate collection in 2016, he as a substitute selected to scale his brand name up slowly and modestly, largely doing the job built-to-purchase and with a thoroughly-managed list of around two dozen stockists. And over the previous handful of many years, his presentations—more like happenings, in point, involving as they have every little thing from a lock-in at a 350-calendar year-previous pub, to a roof-boosting recital from Dylan Thomas’s Below Milk Wooden, to an eerie procession as a result of a church crypt—have garnered him raising excitement as an beneath-the-radar expertise within London’s menswear ecosystem. This period, he made the decision to scale things back again a minimal, opting for an exhibition of photos and a movie.
However, there was loads of Skelton’s innate aptitude for storytelling (with his shaggy, shoulder-length hair and mustache, even the designer’s rakish look feels plucked straight out of a 19th-century novel) to be found. Staged between the crumbling plaster and uncovered brick partitions of the Property of Annetta in Spitalfields, the intensely atmospheric photographs by photographer William Waterworth captured the assortment on a motley crew of locals all over the distant Orkney Islands, an archipelago off the northern idea of Scotland that properties some of Europe’s very best-preserved Neolithic web sites. In simple fact, the photographs were displayed in frames etched with motifs inspired by Neolithic carvings, which also cropped up throughout Skelton’s signature materials of flannels, linens, tweeds, and wools, mainly sourced from across the British Isles.
For when Skelton is a masterful storyteller, the clothing are constantly the matter. And listed here, in Waterworth’s crisp, moody shots, every detail was capable to fully shine. There were shirts crafted from hand-woven, block-printed Indian cottons that includes elaborate motifs influenced by textbooks Skelton dug up on the artwork of Stone Age Britain, worn beneath cardigans of speckled Donegal wool and pulled alongside one another with swirling, cosmic steel brooches and clasps crafted by jewelry designer Trim Barrett. Felted British wool hats, lined with antique French linen, have been designed in collaboration with historical handicrafts skilled Rachel Frost, although boots manufactured from deadstock leather-based had been created in partnership with the Berlin-dependent zero-waste shoemaker Matthias Winkler. Each and every meticulously-crafted component spoke not just to Skelton’s almost scholarly method to developing a network of makers and makers who can provide his exacting vision to life—alongside the modest crew in his studio that finishes all his parts by hand, that is—but also just how cohesive that eyesight certainly is.