May 19, 2024


Unique & Classy

Paolo Roversi exhibition at Palais Galliera, Paris

4 min read

A Paolo Roversi photograph can be recognised quickly: a soft, gauzy target, a prosperous interplay concerning shadow, color and gentle, and a temper of painterly, sepia-toned romance. Occasionally, they surface like a relic from the past – like a hazy Victorian ambrotype, unearthed from an attic – other situations, they are jarringly up to date, capturing the unusual, otherworldly types of avant-garde designers like Rei Kawakubo (his function with whom shaped the issue of US solo exhibit in 2021) and Yohji Yamamoto, with whom Roversi has experienced a long artistic communion. 

‘Paolo’s photography is timeless,’ suggests Sylvie Lécallier, the curator of a new exhibition of Roversi’s operate which opened before this month at Paris’ Palais Galiera (until finally 14 July 2024). ’It is detached from the spirit of the situations, from the ephemeral tendencies of vogue. It is found both of those at the heart of style and at the edge. This is what tends to make him a photographer aside.’

‘Paolo Roversi’ at Paris’ Palais Galliera

Molly, Chanel, Vogue Italia, Paris, 2015

(Graphic credit score: Photography by Paolo Roversi)

Titled, simply just, ‘Paolo Roversi‘, the exhibition contains 140 photographs by the photographer, who was born in Ravenna, northern Italy, ahead of shifting to Paris in 1973, in which he began in images, 1st as a reporter. In 1980, he photographed a campaign for Christian Dior beauty later, he would go on to shoot for a slew of style titles, which include Vogue France, Vogue Italia, and Egoïste, as well as immortalising the supermodels of the working day, from Inès de la Fressange and Stella Tennant to Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss.

His exclusive type, which has involved work on Polaroid as properly as gelatin silver and dye transfer prints, is mostly attained by means of prolonged-publicity manipulation of light, which Lécallier calls ’drawing with light’. ’[It is as if] his styles and dresses are showing up from darkness,’ she carries on. ’The taking pictures is akin to a actual overall performance. He is like a painter, a conductor.’

Fashion photographs on wall at Paolo Roversi exhibition Paris

(Impression credit rating: Images by Gautier Deblonde)

Considerably of his studio work will take put in Studio Luce (Luce translates from Italian as ’light’), a vaunted area in Paris’ 14th arrondissement that has cemented his longtime url with the city, anything that Lécallier states is significant to rejoice in what will be the initially substantial-scale monograph of his do the job in Paris. As these types of, a lot of of the photos are drawn from the Palais Galliera’s personal assortment, several of which have under no circumstances been on exhibit to the general public in advance of.

In its format, the exhibition abandons a chronological timeline in favour of a much more poetic movement from darkness to light. ’Paolo’s pictures is so timeless that we deserted a chronological journey, which didn’t feel to suggest a lot to the knowledge of his function,’ points out Lécallier, who labored closely with Roversi on the exhibition’s design, having identified the photographer for a number of decades prior. ’We also did not want to lock it into themes. [Instead], light-weight is a prevalent thread: from the darkness of the darkish place toward the daylight which bathes his studio by way of the significant bay windows.’

Paolo Roversi portrait of semi-nude model

Guinevere, Yohji Yamamoto, Paris, 2004

(Image credit score: Photography by Paolo Roversi)

As for why his collaborations with designers in unique have been so effective – from Kawakubo and Yamamoto to Romeo Gigli and Azzedine Alaïa – Lécallier places it down to Roversi’s excellent flavor. ’Paolo has a genuine flavor for lovely garments, as very well as a great respect for designers who have a very potent creative universe,‘ she says. Her own favourite photograph in the screen is not of a individual topic, but a pair of footwear, reflected in a mirror. © All rights reserved. | Newsphere by AF themes.